Directions

1. Pour the stock into a medium saucepan, bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to very low, and keep warm.

2. Set a wide deep saucepan--an All Clad saucier is ideal--over medium heat, add the olive oil and shallots or onions and sauté until soft and fragrant, about 7 or 8 minutes; do not let brown. Add the rice and sauté, stirring continuously, until the grains turn milky white, about 2 minutes. Season lightly with salt.

3. Add the wine and stir constantly until it is fully absorbed by the rice. Begin adding stock, ½ cup at a time, and stirring all the while, until the liquid is absorbed. Adjust the heat as needed so that the stock does not evaporate the moment it hits the pan. Continue adding stock and stirring until the rice is nearly completely tender. Add water to the stock if you start to run out.

4. Meanwhile, put the butter into a small sauté pan, set over medium heat, and, when the butter is melted, add the morels and sauté gently until tender. Season with salt and remove from the heat.

5. When the rice is fully tender but not at all mushy, fold in the cooked morels, the ramps, and the cheese. Stir well, taste, and correct for salt. If the risotto seems a bit too thick--it should be creamy but not soupy--add a final ladleful of stock or water.

6. Ladle into soup plates and drizzle with a little extra-virgin olive oil, if using, and a grating a cheese. Enjoy right away.