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It takes a while longer to make pesto by hand rather than by machine, but the results are rewarding.
The best hand tool is a Japanese mortar and pestle called a suribachi <<insert photo>>, which consists of a ceramic bowl with interior ridges that facilitate grinding and a long wooden pestle. Suribachis come in several sizes and are inexpensive; don’t bother with a small one, as then you’ll need two. A large one is ideal for grinding both large and small quantities of ingredients.
Butter is a wonderful addition to pesto; it adds a rich voluptuous quality but can be omitted if you prefer.
Do not wash the basil; brush off any dust or dirt. Remove all stems and tough central veins. Tear gently into small pieces.
Put the garlic and salt in a mortar, and using a wooden pestle, begin to grind in a circular motion, pounding gently now and then to break up the garlic. When it has been reduced to nearly a paste, begin adding a few basil leaves at a time, grinding in a circular motion after each addition until the leaves are completely broken up and reduced to a very fine texture. Continue until all of the basil and all of the parsley have been incorporated into the paste.
Add the cheese, mixing thoroughly. If necessary, use a rubber spatula to scrape the pesto from the sides of the mortar.
Add the butter, if using, admix until smooth. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, mixing continuously. Add salt to taste. Cover the pesto with a plate and set aside until ready to serve.
To store pesto in the refrigerate, pour a thin layer of olive oil over the top, then press a piece of plastic wrap directly on its surface. Use it within a day. To serve with pasta, bring the pesto to room temperature and toss with linguine or spaghettini that is cooked al dente but not rinsed (it should have some of its cooking water clinging to it).
Recipe
If you enjoy pesto only in the summer months when basil is in season, you won't get tired of it, as you may if you eat it year round. It ...
