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The most important part of making squid luau is to cook the leaves long enough; if you don’t, you will notice an unpleasant prickly sensation on your tongue as you eat.
Fill a large pot two-thirds full with water and bring to a boil over high heat.
Stir the luau leaves and baking soda into the boiling water, reduce the heat and simmer, partially covered, for 1 ½ to 2 hours, until very limp.
Drain, cool and squeeze out water. Set aside.
Meanwhile, cut the squid bodies into rings and set rings and tentacles aside.
Melt the butter in a large sauté pan set over medium low heat, add the onions and cook until soft and fragrant, about 15 minutes.
Add the squid and cook until it loses its raw look, about 90 seconds.
Stir in the coconut milk, sugar and luau leaves, season with salt to taste and simmer very gently, until the flavors come together and the juices thicken slightly, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and serve right away.
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